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Posts Tagged ‘handknit’

Per multiple requests, I finally had some time during a break from work and was able to finish writing the pattern to add additional sizes.  As some of you know, the original version only had size 4 because I knitted the sweater for my daughter when she was 4 years old.  I had to do some research as usual to learn the different measurements on the parts of a garment and in various child sizes I was adding.  It was quite a project and another invaluable learning experience. 

The numbers in the updated pattern were not tested but written based on the original size 4, and using meticulous math calculations.  I will knit size 8 for my daughter when time permits.  I hope you enjoy it.

Valentine updated version

Finished chest size:  23.5 (25, 26, 28, 30, 32) inches for sizes 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12)

Yarn: 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins of Knit Picks Superwash Swish DK weight (123 yards/50g), or equivalent.

Needle size: 6; circular needles and double point needles.

Gauge: 23 sts x 31 rows = 4 inches.

Notions: Size D (3.25mm) crochet hook, stitch markers, stitch holders, and tapestry needle

Pattern instruction here Valentine updated version and in Ravelry.

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I have neglected my blog since I started my temporary job.  There are new ideas that I want to write and post here but I just don’t have as much time as before to knit up a demonstration piece and take pictures.  And with Ravelry around to post FO’s, I totally forgot to write about my latest completed project here until now.  Here she is!  My first lace project, a great pleasure to knit.  I modelled it and gave it to mom.  Hope she likes it.  It’s amazing how simply combining yarn-over’s and decrease stitches can turn out countless seemingly complicated and beautiful lace designs.  Now I am really ready for Rowan’s lace vest, Butterfly.

Pattern: Lion Brand Lace Scarf

Yarn: Knit Picks Comfy color Flamingo

Needles: size 8

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Pattern: Mary Jane from Berroco

Needle: size 8 and 7 (for neck border)

Yarn: Knit Pick Wool of the Andes, Carrot

Modifications: adjusted the numbers for the neck, sleeves, and length. 

I didn’t keep track of the total amount of time I spent on this pullover but it felt like a long time.  I am so happy it’s done.  Overall, I like the  fit and the yarn feels very comfortable for 100% wool.  I think I will actually wear it.  In the past,  I had only knitted for other people. 

Some lessons learned with this project: 

Seaming takes me a very long time even with experience.  For future projects I will try to stick with knitting in the round or any other ways to reduce sewing seams.

Don’t mix yarns by different manufacturers no matter how similar you think they look and feel for a fairly traditional classic style pattern project.  This is pretty intuitive except  I was being cheap and just had to use my stash Lion Brand Wool Ease for the stripes.  The subtle differences show up in the way the fabric folds and stretches when you move around.  That can bug you every time you wear the garment.  Also you can probably tell in the pic especially around the upper arms that the Lion Brand Wool Ease came out wider and looser.  

Careful calculation of the stitch numbers to fit your gauge and your measurements (if you can’t  or don’t want to obtain the original pattern gauge) pays off.  I followed the instructions written in “Set-in Sleeves – a love affair” by Pam Allen in Interweave Knit Winter 2007, to a tee, and I thought the sleeve caps just fit perfectly.

In the end, it is a sweater I will wear often because of comfort and fit with some style.

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Finished Size:  19.5″

Yarn used: Lion Brand Wool Ease Seaspray and Heather Blush, or equivalent worsted weight yarns, your choice of MC (main color) and CC (contrasting color).

Needles: size 7 needles and double point needles (dpn); tapestry needle.

Gauge: 23 sts+26 rows =4″, change needle size if needed to match gauge.

Notions: stitch markers and counters.

Note:  The diamonds and “twinkles” can be worked in either intarsia or Fair Isle.  Intarsia produces single layered fabric because the alternate colored (CC) yarns are cut when one color section is done and joined in again at the next section that requires the CC.  Fair Isle, on the other hand, produces double or more layered fabric as the CC yarns are carried floating or weaved-in on the WS when not in use and are brought to the front to be knitted when the pattern calls for the colors again. 

The diamonds on this hat are knitted in intarsia because I anticipate that some kids, living in the California weather, may not appreciate the thickness produced by Fair Isle knitting, especially with heavier weight yarns.  The twinkles are done in Fair Isle since they only cover a few rows and will not create as much of a bulkiness. 

A large portion of the hat is thus worked flat ( intarsia is easier done flat) and then for the last few rows of the top portion I opted to work in the round.  The flat part is sewn at the end creating a back seam.  

Learn more on knitting in Intarsia and Fair Isle here and in these tutorials- intarsia, Fair Isle.

Hat 

Cast on 112 stitches. Work flat (turning front and back) in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch (use smaller size needles for this part if you prefer your ribbing tighter)- about 6 rows.  Switch to stockinette stitches- k on RS, p on WS (and switch to larger needles if you used smaller needles for ribbing) for the rest of the project. 

For rows 12-26, incorporate color changes according to the chart, repeating the multiples of 10-stitch pattern (starting from second stitch) 11 times across the rows.  For example, for row 12 only the fifth stitch of each 10 stitches (first set covers stitches 2-11, second set covers stitches 12-21, and so on) that you work is knit in CC yarn- repeat 11 times.  Use stitch markers to keep track.  First and last stitiches (#1 and #112) are worked in MC and will be enclosed by the seam later.

28

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27

26

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

C

C

 

 

C

C

C

 

25

24

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23

22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21

20

 

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

C

C

 

 

 

 

19

18

 

 

 

C

C

C

C

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

 

 

17

16

 

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

 

 

 

 

 

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

 

 

15

14

 

 

 

C

C

C

C

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

C

C

 

 

 

 

13

12

 

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

 

 

C

 = Contrasting color

Continue with stockinette stitch until the hat measures 6.5″ from the beginning, longer if you wish to have more coverage.  At this point I prefer to work in the round.  Switch to the dpn’s and distribute the stitches evenly onto 3 needles.  Join the beginning and end stitches together RS facing.  Start working the decreases for the crown as follows:

Round 1: *k2tog (knit 2 stitches together), k5, repeat from * to end of round – 96 sts

Round 2: *k2tog, k4, repeat from * to end of round – 80 sts

Round 3: *k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of round – 64 sts

Round 4: *k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of round – 48 sts

Round 5: *k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round – 32 sts

Round 6:  k2tog all around – 16 sts

Break yarn,  leaving enough length to thread through remaining sts.  Pull tightly and weave in the end.   Sew the back seam using mattress stitch and be sure to enclose the first and last stitches into the seam so the 2 diamonds are separated by only 1 stitch like the rest of the hat.

 Photo of back seam, in the center.

Pom-pom:  I used the method posted by Interweave Knits, instructions here.

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